the SURFING of a
WILD SOUTHERN
Though completely swamped, the boat was nearly unharmed. Swimming round it we picked up the floating oars, and lashing them across the gunwale, tumbled back to our places. There we sat up to our knees in the sea, the water covering every rib and plank, so that to our downward gazing eyes the suspended craft seemed.
Meanwhile the driving scud, rack, and mist, grew darker with the shadows of night; no sign of the ship could be seen. The rising sea forbade all attempts to bale out the boat. The oars were useless as propellers, performing now the office of life-preservers the real life from the wild one.
There are certain queer times and occasions in this strange mixed affair we call life when a man takes this whole universe for a vast practical joke, though the wit thereof he but dimly discerns, and more than suspects that the joke is at nobody’s expense but his own. However, nothing dispirits, and nothing seems worth while disputing. He bolts down all events, all creeds, and beliefs, and persuasions, all hard things visible and invisible, never mind how knobby; as an ostrich of potent digestion gobbles down bullets and gun flints. And as for small difficulties and worryings, prospects of sudden disaster, peril of life and limb; all these, and death itself, seem to him only sly, good-natured hits.
Waiting for hide tide. It was to fully enjoy and embrace this part of the journey. I knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life surfing the best spots in the world, living easy and minimal. Spend time with my familiy, eating healthy and doing sports.
Surfing — 7:30 to 9:30. The Good Life. In Costa Rica, the present, the past, and the future lie in the same line. Surf or Die.
The deepest in the jungle, the more alive you feel — Nature is awesome.
Amazing country, poor politics. As many, Costa Rica is a country whose people saw their rights violated for a long time: the country is full of natural resources snatched by the corrupted politicians to hugely enrich themselves. Low education caps the story.
The Good People. I’m deeply interested in the shapes and the colours we use to design and fill the spaces that surrounds us.
